Oh my Gaudi, Barcelona | Part One

Welcome to Barcelona. We rambled down the Ramblas, explored the medieval Old City and discovered all that's funky in El Born. Antoni Gaudi's work took my breath away, and we completely immersed ourselves in Catalan culture - loving every minute. 

We were greeted with bubbly upon check-in at our hotel, Alma, on Saturday, and we were beyond happy with the location - within walking distance to all we needed. Alma was modern, a complete contrast from Hazlitt's, where a fingerprint scan opened the door. 

We grabbed tapas at Mixtella for lunch before strolling our way to Sagrada Familia. 

Sagrada Familia is Antoni Gaudi's most famous and awe-inspiring work (and it's unfinished!). Everything about this Modernista-style church took my breath away and marked my third favorite moment in my life. Oh my Gaudi!

If there's any building on earth I'd like to see, it's the Sagrada Familia... Finished (2026!).

Next we made our way to another Gaudi delight - a beyond fanciful park in the foothills at the edge of Barcelona, Park Guell (sounds like "parkway"). There's gingerbread houses, a dragon, a forest, gorgeous tiles and lots and lots of color and whimsy.  

You can't take a normal picture in a park like this. We spent the rest of the night exploring our hotel's pretty outdoor space and pool and then it was onward to dinner at Sauc. We dined on many creative courses: sea foam on fish, dessert that melted away to reveal the true treat, etc. Then after three and a half hours, we rolled out of there. It was bliss.

{This is London | Finale: St. Paul's; The Cheese; Abbey Road}

{This is London | Part Two: Buckingham Palace; Celebrity Sighting; Bone Marrow}

{This is London | Part One: Hazlitt's; Tower of London; Westminster Abbey}

This is London | Finale

We woke up on Friday morning, grabbed coffee and scones at the Patisserie Valerie and then made our way to St. Paul's Cathedral. St. Paul's is England's national church. 

Our favorite part was definitely climbing to the top of the 365-foot-high dome. The climb consisted of 528 steps (perspective: UNC's Bell Tower is 128). 

The views of London's skyline at the top of the dome were gorgeous.

Certainly making the climb worth it, but whew, the steps were dizzying to me. 

We grabbed tea at the oldest shop in the City of Westminster, Twinings. Then it was onward to find London's oldest pub, Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese Tavern, for lunch. It took us awhile to locate, but we didn't give up. We asked two locals which way to The Cheese and one friend pointed up the street, the other down the street, one was sure it was on the left and the other was positive is was on the right. Needless to say when we found it... Celebration.

The Cheese dates back to 1667, when it was rebuilt after the Great Fire, but it's been a tavern since 1538 (!!!). We sat at a table across from Charles Dickens' favorite seat next to an old coal fireplace. We sipped on some pints, ate, and well, it was really, really cool. So much history! (Our table was even parked next to a fellow Carolina grad - we're everywhere.)

After lunch we made our way to Hank's favorite exhibit (biggest wink ever), This is London by Miroslav Sasek. The This is series are some of my favorite children's books, and Sasek has written them for many of my most treasured cities. I love Hank's enthusiasm here. 

Afterwards we popped into the British Museum to see the Rosetta Stone and then made our way to Abbey Road. I felt we needed a Beatles photo op on the famous crosswalk.

We walked by Paul McCartney's current home, took a walk through Harrod's department store and then found our way back to our neighborhood, Soho, for burgers, beers, etc. 

Well... That was London. It was all things magical. Next up... Barcelona!

{This is London | Part Two: Buckingham Palace; Celebrity Sighting; Bone Marrow}

{This is London | Part One: Hazlitt's; Tower of London; Westminster Abbey}

This is London | Part Two

We contrasted our second day in London with the first by keeping our feet mostly up and seeing the city by way of a red double-decker bus. We saw lots of delights like the below garden accessible only to those living in the surrounding square - lovely!

After cruising around for much of the morning, our first main stop was Buckingham Palace for the Changing of the Guard. While I do agree that it's a spectacle every visitor to London has to see at least once, once is all I needed (and Hank would certainly agree). 

While the Royal Guards looked great, your packed in tight for an hour long ceremony.

We ducked out of the ceremony a tad early and happened upon A Taste of London - a street fair serving up delectable treats. This find was pure luck, and we were happy.

We met a pair of locals serving none other than... Carolina barbecue! And would you believe it, that line was the most packed, with locals! They imported North Carolina sauces, and we were excited to chat barbecue with them - one chef having visited N.C. for inspiration.

We made an unplanned turn from the street fair and landed in front of Laduree. I first tasted these macarons in Paris, and they are amazing. Rose petal is my favorite flavor.

I blissfully ate my macaron as we walked to a spot I saw on Pinterest - Neal's Yard. It's a turn off a main shopping street splashed with every color you could dream of. 

After that side trip, we hopped back on the bus and cruised by {St. Paul's Cathedral}

{Tower Bridge}

Love this photo capturing the new city up against the old. {Tower of London}

We spent the afternoon at the fascinating Churchill War Rooms. We walked through the underground headquarters of the British government's fight against the Nazis in the darkest days of the Battle for Britain. The war rooms were neat and the museum top notch.

Loved this quote (so true!):

We started making our way back to Soho, capturing one of my favorite shots on the way. 

We made a stop at Picadilly Circus, and it was packed. We quickly learned it was the Star Trek Into Darkness London premiere. Here's our celebrity sighting, Chris Pine (loved him in the chick flick, This Means War). 

Once back at Hazlitt's, it was tea time in our room before heading to dinner.

That night we dined at St. John - a much anticipated restaurant for us as it has frequented the world's 50 best restaurants list. Like Hazlitt's, it's unassuming but what a gem. I had one of the best things I ever ate - roast bone marrow. It's fatty, buttery goodness that you put on toasted bread and top with parsley salad.

It's hard to find something "typical" at St. John. We also dined on salted pig's liver, veal and braised rabbit - all adventurous to me but all great. The above menu is now framed in our kitchen, and it's one of my favorite souvenirs from the trip. I fell more in love with this city each day.

{This is London | Part One: Hazlitt's; Tower of London; Westminster Abbey}

This is London | Part One

We arrived to a week of beautiful blue skies in one of the world's greatest cities to celebrate our second anniversary. We had an itinerary (that later blew into the Queen's fountain) that we based on travel shows, personal recommendations, some internet but mostly on our beloved, Rick Steves (who we previously met in Rome!). After minding the gap and a tube ride into the city, we walked to our hotel, Hazlitt's. 

Hazlitt's was unassuming, located in the heart of London's cosmopolitan Theatreland, Soho, and was surrounded by lovely restaurants and bars. There was a park down the street that quickly became our favorite for people watching. This hotel was away from the roar of traffic but within a very short walk to the most frequented sites. Hazlitt's was built in 1718, and Hank knew we had to stay there after he saw it on Anthony Bordain's show No Reservations. This hotel had an intimate charm that no large hotel can match. Furnished with antiques, no two rooms were the same, and well, that's just my style. The staff was legitimately great, and they sent us on our way to our first stop, Dog and Duck.

Dog and Duck was a nice pub right down the street. I started off with (surprise!) fish and chips, and Hank dined on beef pie. We both had local brews and said our first of many cheers! When people ask about my favorite part of London, I give a loaded answer, that it truly was the pulse of the place. I love that we walked right into a new to us city with no language barriers. I love how relaxed the locals were, they all said cheers!, the bars were packed with businessmen grabbing a drink during lunch, and everyone congregated outdoors at the end of the work day to share a pint and chat. 

After lunch, our lofty day one goals were to see historic Big Ben, bustling Trafalgar Square (pictured above), tour the Tower of London, home of the crown jewels, and walk the aisle of Westminster Abbey. You'll see the Tower of London below. We took their Beefeater Tour and learned this tower is where traitors, such as Anne Boleyn, were decapitated... Yikes! 

The view of Tower Bridge was gorgeous, the lawns inside were as nice as they could be, and I spotted this cutest home on the Tower Green with a Carolina blue door. Hello, charming.

(Royal Guard}

{Tower Bridge}

In regards to the crown jewels... just wow. We saw the Sovereigns's Scepter which is encrusted with the world's largest cut diamond at 530 carats. It. was. huge.  

We caught a boat at Tower Pier and cruised on the Thames River to Westminster Pier.

{See ya, Tower of London}

{Cruising by the London Eye}

{And... Elizabeth Tower (Big Ben!)}

This is our London in a Photo: Big Ben, Eye of London, Black Taxi. 

We have arrived... Westminster Abbey! 

The Abbey was built in 1065, and it was truly breathtaking. You can feel the rich history radiate from the walls around you. I couldn't believe I was standing in the most famous English church in Christendom, where royalty has been wedded, crowned and buried since the 11th century (!!!). 

Whew... I was mind blown. We took a rest on the lawns of the Abbey before heading back to our hotel to do as the locals do. We saw lots of pretty on our walk back "home."

And we certainly knew it was the end of the work day after a walk back past Dog and Duck.

Once back at Hazlitt's we soaked our feet and got ready for dinner. London is known for a lively, trendy and pleasantly surprising cuisine scene. Our Hazlitt's staff sent us back on our way to start the night at The Red Fort. Eating Indian food in London is "going local," and we had some good eats and wine at this Indian restaurant. Cheers to a fun first day!